Milan Fashion Week: Missoni, Prada and More
Ferragamo’s winter silhouette is dark, edgy and urban. Collars up and layered for any eventuality, the Ferragamo man is on the move.
Designer Massimiliano Giornetti honors tradition in the Ferragamo menswear collection for next fall and winter with classic looks proving to be the abiding trend on this season’s runways. But the fashion house that first made its name in leather goods is distinguishing itself with utility.
Outerwear is the core of the collection, and Ferragamo extends its usefulness by making it reversible and multi-purpose: A woolen overcoat with leather accents is lined with shearling, while a cape is made more versatile by cashmere lining.
Knitwear is mostly chunky with high necks, but it can also be a finer crewneck that gives a clean line when worn beneath an overcoat. Trousers finish at about three-quarter length to reveal leather boots with stealthy rubber soles.
Versace’s menswear collection for next winter is nothing if not eclectic.
Macho rocker, nostalgic creative, pampered metrosexual, life-of-the-party: there was something for every Versace aficionado in the new collection.
It’s as if designer Donatella Versace looked into the archives and decided she loved it all: Golden accents, studs, Baroque touches, wild prints and hand-painted details.
There were hand-painted denim ensembles, black-and-tan leather pants and jackets with sculpted shoulders and plaid suits. The iconic Baroque Versace motif made appearances as appliques sewn onto wool coats or in the familiar gold-and-black print in a quilted coat.
Versace also tossed in classic looks, which are dominating Milan runways this season, presenting a double-breasted suit. Hers was loose-fitting, plaid and worn with two-tone shoes.
Versace has also thrown down the gauntlet to men, challenging them to wear lacy lingerie. It’s a reasonable question: Why should such indulgences be just for women? Versace designed transparent lace shorts or briefs, with matching tops, in staples black or white.
British designer Vivienne Westwood is never at a loss to speak her mind through fashion. This round, she chooses the Milan runway as her megaphone to call for climate revolution.
"Climate revolution is the only means toward a sound economy. When the general public massively switches on to this fact we will win," she said in her fashion notes, which accompanied her winter 2014 menswear collection.
Models with puffed lips and painted black eyes looked like they had just come from fighting the designer’s battle, as they marched down the runway in low-crotched pants, a long-tailed morning coat, shiny orange fluorescent lace-ups and an oversized, wide-brimmed felt hat.
Throughout the collection, revolutionary slogans calling for an end to the climate crisis were printed on white T-shirts.
Italo Zuchelli, creative director for Calvin Klein menswear, invented his own version of the layered look by combining sportswear with formal attire to create a 24-hour look for the winter 2014.
"Nobody wants to change several times a day anymore," Zuchelli told reporters ahead of his show during Milan Fashion Week.
A sporty quilted nylon vest can be worn over an elegant three-quarter coat, or a fancy silk blazer. Trousers are workman multi-pocketed cargo pants but fashioned in soft gentlemanly materials. Synthesized rubber is worked to look quilted, and can be used for both formal and informal wear.