Hungry in Halifax

Kelsy Chauvin READ TIME: 5 MIN.

The good news is that Nova Scotia's culinary appeal covers a whole lot more than just seafood. The even better news is that the seafood here is among the best in the world. Thank the frigid northern Atlantic waters for delivering near-perfect oysters, lobsters, mussels, salmon and many other seafood delicacies to skilled chefs across the province.

Downtown Halifax has many seafood eateries eager to delight you. Two staple restaurants that appeal to both locals and hungry tourists are just a few blocks apart in downtown. Bluenose II has been offering reliably delicious Nova Scotian seafood in an ego-free, upscale-diner setting since 1964.

A more romantic dining experience awaits at the reliable Five Fishermen, which hosts a daily oyster happy hour and offers arguably the best classic seafood chowder in town (along with a fascinating history that's led to many a ghost story surrounding its 200-year-old building).

Best Bites in Every Direction

A little further south in downtown, 2 Doors Down is one of the city's most impressively diverse restaurants for its phenomenal cocktails and fresh takes on classic dishes with international influences. (Don't miss the mac and cheese with local veggies and blue-ribbon cheeses.)

Morris East, located both downtown and with a newer location across the harbor, is a staple for organic ingredients and tantalizing wood-fired sandwiches and gourmet pizzas. Owner Jennie Dobbs also makes sure the wine list pairs flawlessly with both the lunch and dinner menus.

In North End, the father-son Christakos duo behind Brooklyn Warehouse updates their Greek diner heritage by perfecting standards like burgers and fried chicken, and letting their award-winning chef reinvent staples like chowder and seared scallops using farm-fresh ingredients in wildly innovative, delicious ways. (As a bonus, some of those herbs and vegetables are picked from the restaurant's backyard garden.)


In addition to Nova Scotia's gastronomic delights, the province is a bona fide high-caliber wine region. Most restaurants go out of their way to feature local wineries like Grand Pr�, Luckett and Avondale on their menus. Likewise, fantastic breweries and distilleries are cropping up across the province, like the Tatamagouche Brewing Company on the north coast and Ironworks Distillery, based in the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage city of Lunenburg.

Getting to Know "The Fax"

French culture is well represented across Nova Scotia, though by now it's long been woven into the British colonial history of Canada's Maritime Provinces. In Halifax, the scenic waterfront reveals bits of both cultural legacies through various galleries and museums.

Top among them is the recently expanded Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. This intriguing institution occupies a National Historic Site on the pier that more than a million immigrants passed through from 1928 to 1971. Personal stories of Canadian immigrants are a highlight, inclusive of LGBT citizens who arrived in more recent years thanks to Canada's same-sex marriage laws (some of those stories are also shared online).

The waterfront and adjacent streets are prime strolling and shopping territory, with Pier 21 at the south end and Casino Nova Scotia to the north. In between you'll find picturesque tall ships, cute shops, restaurants with patios as well as the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. On Saturdays, Halifax Seaport Farmers' Market is the place to stock up on locally sourced souvenirs - and patronize vendors in the oldest continuously operating farmers' market in North America.

From Water Street, stroll up the hill to relax in the stunning, perfectly landscaped Victorian-style Halifax Public Gardens, or explore the city's military history at the historic Citadel (also a National Historic Site). Argyle Street is easily one of the city's most memorable, thanks to the Nova Scotian blue-and-green tartan pattern painted on its asphalt. Pull up a patio chair at one of the restaurants for quality people-watching.

A time-saving way to take in much of the city is aboard the hop-on/hop-off Ambassatours Big Pink Sightseeing bus, a repurposed vintage double-decker bus that will guide you through Halifax and tip you off to the city's quirky (and sometimes ghostly) past. The company also offers sightseeing tours outside the city to historic Lunenburg and Mahone Bay, home to the famous lighthouse at Peggy's Cove.

For a variety of tastes in one fell swoop, join one of the Local Tasting Tours to explore Halifagian restaurants by neighborhood or theme. Or consider a two-wheeled tour via I Heart Bikes, which also rents bikes so that you can make your own adventure.

The Accommodating Capital

One the region's largest cities, Halifax has plenty of hotels, most of which are surprisingly affordable, especially with some advance planning. (And for those who love hotel rewards, many of the area's hotels are familiar brands.)

Among the most distinctive independent inns is the Halliburton, a fine boutique hotel that occupies a series of townhouses along Morris Street, each room and suite unique in layout and furnishings. Many offer fireplaces, while others have shared or private balconies overlooking the hotel courtyard.

If your stylistic predilections skew modern, check into the Prince George Hotel. This luxury option is not too glamorous on the exterior, but its interior d�cor and rooms offer a sleek, sophisticated appeal. There's also a lovely landscaped patio, indoor pool and fine dining and smart cocktails at Gio Restaurant and LevelBar.

A more classic choice awaits at the Lord Nelson Hotel, a 260-room historic accommodation in a prime location along the Pride parade route and across the street from the colorful Public Gardens. Built in 1928, it has the right touch of elegance with contemporary room styles and amenities. You can also get a hearty meal at the Arms Public House, a traditional English pub on the hotel's ground floor.

While Halifax is only just emerging on the radar of most international travelers, it's gradually assuming the role of Canada's next great destination. And with unforgettable culinary, cultural and LGBT attractions already stealing the limelight, now is a great time to discover this capital city for yourself.


by Kelsy Chauvin

Kelsy Chauvin is a writer, photographer and marketing consultant based in Brooklyn, New York. She specializes in travel, feature journalism, art, theater, architecture, construction and LGBTQ interests. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter at @kelsycc.

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