Ricardo Seco Lands a Punch But Not a Knock-Out at NY Fashion Week
Ricardo Seco’s Spring 2014 collection packs a punch but perhaps may need to go another round or two for an official knockout. Seco claimed he was inspired by "Power," even bestowing the title on his runway show at New York Fashion Week. "Power is the man and the city who act with absolute certainty in overcoming challenges and adapting to trends by making them their own. This is where New York and Shanghai meet," he told Women’s Wear Daily.
Designers throughout the decades have been influenced by the Far East and there is definitely an emphasis on the evergrowing Asian consumer in the current world economy right now. Seco strategically draws from this inspiration in a collection that is both modern and timeless.
In addition, a strong boxing motif runs throughout with drawstring waists, billowy shorts, robes and athletic tanks under jackets. But the real champion here is the way Seco plays with texture, including a mix of visuals such as metallics, bright colors and flowing silhouettes.
Getting in the Ring
The show opened at The Eyebeam Art + Technology Center in Manhattan with an Asian silk tunic and cropped pants. Fine, but not so fresh. However, the striking oversized cobalt clutch reminiscent of a Cheongsam dress in the male model’s hands was exciting, and the embroidered satin of the bag against his soft, lightweight woven outfit threw texture play firmly into the ring right from the beginning. Soon leathers were perforated, burned out, washed and crinkled. Velvet pants had flocked florals running down the legs as did the raglan sleeves of satin sporty jackets. Shorts, pants and a long coat featured flocking that mimicked camouflage with sparkly embellishment.
Of particular note was a thin, washed leather coat evocative of a boxer’s robe, while another version was presented in the satin brocade fabric of the aforementioned clutch. These felt modern and strong in their volume and sports influence. The perforated leather sleeves on a jacket were also echoed in an unexpected sleeveless leather dress shirt. Perhaps if the whole collection had stayed singularly focused on athleticism, the clothes would have delivered a more "Power"ful message.
Other accessories included on-trend wood framed glasses as well as red tinted sunglasses - a collaboration with Mexico City based Custom Projects.
Overall the power, boxer, urban city and Asian influences were all present and accounted for but the muddled integration lessened the impact. Ricardo Seco’s Spring 2014 collection has definitive elements, and while the designer may not reign supreme at this edition of New York Fashion Week, he is undoubtedly a contender to be reckoned with when it comes to dressing the modern urban man.