Watch: Milan Fashion Week's Best Menswear

by Matthew Wexler

EDGE Media Network Contributor

Thursday March 4, 2021

Anna Wintour and her oversized sunglasses weren't spotted this week in Milan, as most designers migrated their fall 2021 collections to digital presentations due to the pandemic. But there was still plenty of wow-factor. From Prada's Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada partnership to Fendi's dramatic silhouettes in a neutral palette, Milan proved, once again, that nothing can hold back fashion.

Fendi
Vogue describes Fendi's fall 2021 menswear collection as "bed to bodega" attire, and although we're not sure who that target customer might be, much of the collection is reversible, giving consumers more bang for their b-to-b buck.

Armani
Armani's latest menswear show opens with a gorilla close-up, but there's no virtual Dian Fossey in sight. Instead, the camera pans out to reveal "a structured wardrobe, a collection of garments that, when updated, span the decades in rapid transitions." Lush velvet and supple leather accent the soft lines, punctuated with geometric shapes, and "follows a chromatic path that switches between natural hues, deep blues and black."

Prada
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada shared their latest collection on YouTube in January 2021, which has been viewed more than 3.5 million times. From unitards to scrunchy-sleeved suiting, the effort has drawn mixed reactions from fans and critics, with The Cut saying, "the clothes were not particularly erotic, in spite of the long johns. Wouldn't you think that such a garment, linked to all kinds of masculine figures over the centuries, would whip up a little sexual fantasy in 2021?"

Dolce & Gabbana
The controversial dynamic duo of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana had planned a live fashion presentation this winter, but pandemic be damned. Their digital-forward collection includes treated fabrics, metallics, boho-chic patchwork, and just about everything else in a nod to decades past. "It's nice to show this generation what we know," Gabbana told Vogue. "We grew a lot since the 1990s: tailoring, craftsmanship, this kind of work. We've applied these ideas to the young generation."

Valentino
Hauntingly filmed in an abandoned theater, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli's Act Collection could resuscitate a stopped heart. Filmed at the Piccolo Teatro of Milan, the mostly monochromatic collection showcased detailed minis, voluminous overcoats, and a continued study of the white dress shirt with exaggerated collar that extends to the shoulder, as if we're ready to take flight into a new era.

Matthew Wexler is EDGE's Senior Editor, Features & Branded Content. More of his writing can be found at www.wexlerwrites.com. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @wexlerwrites.