Gucci Opens Milan Fashion Week

Robert Doyle READ TIME: 2 MIN.

MILAN, (AP) - Fashion week has begun in Milan.

Gucci had the honor of the curtain raiser for the six days of preview showings, during which 73 top designers including Armani, Dolce &Gabbana, Fendi, Missoni, Prada and Versace will present their latest womenswear collections for the Spring-Summer 2011. The week is also packed with related events ranging from the 144 collection presentations, to open air shows, to the inauguration of the newly renovated Gucci store to the opening of a new Louis Vuitton store, both on Via Montenapoleone, Milan's most fashionable shopping street.

Most feted member of the fashion crowd known as a lover of the trade, but also a tough critic, is sure to be Vogue Italia's editor in chief, Franca Sozzani, who was recently named UN Goodwill Ambassador for her experience in fashion as well as her battle for recognition of women in the work force.

The Italian Fashion Chamber has opted for a somber look given the current generally bad economic times, shying from gaudy celebrations, but it's president Mario Boselli has sent a clear message to designers. "We must be united to overcome the crisis," he told Milan's prestigious Corriere della Sera daily newspaper, referring to the rivalry which exists among designers from show venues to top places on the fashion calendar.

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GUCCI

The Gucci collection shown Wednesday was as modern as it was retro.

Sequined Flapper dresses complete with fluttering fringes and pleats shared the runway with cropped jackets and high-waisted slim-fitting pants that were at the same time minimalist and masculine. Old-fashioned motifs gleaned from the Gucci archives from animal prints to tiger heads and the trademark horse were given a contemporary twist by using modern graphics including a 3D effect and high-tech fabrics and stitching.

The over all effect is of a woman who knows what she wants. The bold sequined styles in black, white and antique gold, decorated with opulent jewel details are definitely not for the 'wall flower', especially when combined with the high-heeled, gilded footwear.

The collection inspired by the 'art deco' of the 1920's, also has a 1960's feel, with its heavy embroidery, cropped jackets, pencil pants and low-waisted dresses. However fashion history tends to repeat itself. At the time the look was said to have harked back to the Charleston era.

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FERRETTI

Alberta Ferretti is known for her feminine diaphanous look, and next summer is no exception.

In one of her most colorful seasons to date, the designer presents soft chiffon dresses, gowns and palazzo pajamas in bold blue red yellow and green. She also combines two or more of these colors in the geometric patterns which make up many of her prints for the next warm weather season.

With her colorful clothes Ferretti, underlined the lighthearted feel of the collection. In recent seasons many designers have opted for black as the favorite summer shade, not only turning their women into not so merry widows, but making their clothes look hot and heavy..

Instead the lightly dressed models, wearing thin strapped black sandals with a moderate heel, and holding a multicolored clutch purse, looked like they were ready for a day -or night- of summer fun.


by Robert Doyle

Long-term New Yorkers, Mark and Robert have also lived in San Francisco, Boston, Provincetown, D.C., Miami Beach and the south of France. The recipient of fellowships at MacDowell, Yaddo, and Blue Mountain Center, Mark is a PhD in American history and literature, as well as the author of the novels Wolfchild and My Hawaiian Penthouse. Robert is the producer of the documentary We Are All Children of God. Their work has appeared in numerous publications, as well as at : www.mrny.com.

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