September 30, 2014
War and Peace: Jewelry for the Next Generation
Daniel Scheffler READ TIME: 5 MIN.
Socially conscious endeavors have filtered into virtually every aspect of the retail industry. A new level of spirited entrepreneurship has descended upon the jewelry industry. The joy of owning something beautiful that also has impact is swiftly becoming standard practice.
The jewelry industry has responded to this new age of consumerism by finding innovative ways of creating and seeing beauty through items associated with war or hatred, as well as placing serious value on ethically sourced stones. Gemfields, based in London and with Mila Kunis as their global ambassador, has led the way. "We are educating consumers on colored gemstones, with the hope that once someone understands our mission, they can make a responsible choice in their jewelry purchase and will always seek out a stone that was environmentally-sourced" said Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle.
EDGE profiles three brands with forward-thinking vision yet distinct styles. They originate from three different continents yet seek to create beauty out of war - using peace bomb metal, bullets and even illegal guns.
Article 22
Made by artisans in Ban Naphia, Laos, Article 22 uses peace bomb metal from the Vietnam War bombs to create their collections of meaningful jewelry. Elizabeth Suda, Article 22 founder, calls it "the alchemy of mixing indigenous artisan savoir faire, resources and culture to conjure modern forms that reveal true stories."
Article 22 gets its name from the 22nd article of the United Nations Declaration of Human Rights. The pieces themselves are made in war-torn Laos and then altered for final production in Manhattan's garment district. But the brand isn't just based in South East Asia; Brooklyn-stationed Suda sees working with skilled craftsman in New York City as equally important and as part of "assisting in the redevelopment of a historical area."
Suda came up with the ideas for Article 22 while she was traveling around Laos and visiting rural communities enclosing Ban Naphia. She feels that with Article 22 they can now "tell the stories of Laotian communities with a modern and original approach, creating unique objects and new forms of business with local entrepreneurs." According to Suda, at the current rate of removal it would take "800 years to clear the unexploded bombs in Laos." And so with each piece of Article 22 sold, a donation that clears more than a square acre of bomb-littered ground is now guaranteed.
In terms of design, the A22.2 collection is the brand's more sophisticated line and incorporates semi and precious metals.
Available at NYC Curve Boutique on Bond Street, New York or online at www.article22.com.
Raven and Lily
In the calloused mountains of Northern Ethiopia is where the brand Raven and Lily's co-founders Kristen Dickerson and Sophia Lin have employed local bead makers to create a range of delicate, handmade jewelry. With a mission to empower women with all their ventures, this particular venture harnesses the traditional artisanal skills passed down from generation to generation. Farmers in the area supply women with artillery shells gathered from previous war conflicts, which they then melt down in order to create the beads used in the jewelry's creation.
According to Raven and Lily the beads "go through various stages to achieve the final polished look." They are then transferred to the women on Entoto Mountain - a gathering place for HIV-positive women. The partnership, according to Raven and Lily, provides HIV care and educational opportunities for entire families and an environment where working women can now proudly facilitate "bringing hope and light from what was once intended for harm."
Watch this video about the bead-making process:
Fonderie 47
Fonderie 47 CEO and co-founder Peter Thum was inspired to create Fonderie 47 based on his "personal experiences of meeting children armed with assault rifles in Africa." Determined to transform this problem he and his business partners created Fonderie 47 with programs specifically aimed at "reducing the number and impact of small arms around the world." And so Fonderie 47 came to life as a social venture - one part for profit as they sell their wares and another part not-for-profit as a portion of revenue funds the destruction of assault rifles throughout Africa. Since the company launched its first collection in 2009 it has been able to dismantle more than 32,000 guns.
The brand takes these guns and repurposes them into luxury jewelry collections. The Phoenix Collection was designed by James de Givenchy for Fonderie 47 and includes objet d'art eggs crafted from the steel and then laced with diamonds. The reminder of its first purpose isn't forgotten as each piece bears the serial number of the weapon used to create these pieces of beauty. The latest from Fonderie 47 is their House Brand collection, launching this fall, as well as the signature 'spike' collection curated by Liberty United and created in conjunction with Florida designers Giles & Brother.
For more on Fonderie 47, visit Fonderie47.com.
Jewelry for a Cause
As part of the Jewelry For A Cause Company, The Caliber Collection has launched in the U.S. - taking illegal guns and turning them into jewelry. According to the brand's website, the name Caliber was chosen with two meanings: "the caliber of a gun and how the caliber of a city is raised when illegal guns are taken off its streets" and today the collection includes bangles and cuff links with the gun's serial numbers imprinted.
The brand was initially made up of the serial numbers of 250 guns and metal from bullet casings seized by the Newark Police Department and the result: "a series of pieces that embody the gun's transformation from a destructive weapon to a powerful symbol of renewal." But as the founder, Jessica Mindich says, "it's much more than a fashion statement, it's a symbol of solidarity."
For more information on Jewelry for A Cause's Caliber Collection, visit www.JewelryForACause.net.