Riding the Rails in Scandinavia

Jill Gleeson READ TIME: 5 MIN.

There isn't much that's more romantic than rail travel. The rhythmic rocking motion of the cars sliding along the tracks, the howling of the horn as the train speeds into the star-sparkling night, the well-suited conductors in their uniforms and caps.

Trains are erotic even without images of plump, round engines speeding into dark, tight tunnels -- and they also happen to be a great way to get around. Particularly in Scandinavia, where routes travel through places of unearthly beauty, like Norway's Sognefjorden, the longest and deepest fjord in Europe. They also conveniently link some of the world's greatest LGBT-loving cities, all worth a long, sweet stop during your next train trek through the Land of the Midnight Sun.

More Than 'The Danish Girl'

There's more to Copenhagen than the locations of Eddie Redmayne's gorgeous film -- though thanks to their charm and beauty you'll want to leave time to visit the UNESCO World Heritage-nominated Frederiksstad district and the canals of Nyhavn.

To get a feel for Denmark's capital city and the LGBT's community's place within it, take a whirl around town with Copenhagen LGBT Historical Walking Tours. Afterward, hit up Centralhjornet, reputedly the oldest gay bar in the world, with roots going back to the 1950s.The city center's best place to refuel might be gay-welcoming Restaurant Kronborg. Not only does it serve traditional open-face sandwiches (called Sm�rrebr�d), there's also other intriguing Danish fare on the menu, such as smoked eel with scrambled eggs.

Second-Largest Doesn't Mean Second-Best

Of course you're going to want to visit Stockholm while in Sweden, but don't neglect Gothenburg. The country's second-largest city but the first to have an LGBT council, it was ranked the best place to live by the Swedish Federation for Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Rights.

Lovely and walkable, Gothenberg is home to two universities and the beloved Liseberg, Sweden's version of Disneyland. It also boasts a lively LGBT scene that bustles along its tree-lined sidewalks, including the two-level Gretas, with drag, dancing and dining. In June, thousands of rainbow flags fly above the city as part of the weeklong West Pride, now in its tenth year.

Party Like a Viking

From high culture to low-down good times, Oslo offers it all to LGBT travelers. Begin your visit with a pilgrimage to see Scandinavia's most famous piece of art: Edvard Munch's ghoulish, grim masterwork "The Scream." View it at the National Museum or regret it forever.

If you happen to be in the city in June you might want to follow that stop up with a cheery performance by Oslo fagottkor, one of the world's premier gay choirs, at legendary cabaret Chat Noir. Or cruise seriously at gay sauna Club Hercules or the fetish club SLM. For fans of rabble-rousing written words, the righteously radical Tronsmo Books & Comics, with a great gay and lesbian section, also awaits.

All Aboard

Ready to rock Scandinavia? You're going to want to roll through it, too, with the new Scandinavia Eurail pass. Introduced just last year, these nifty passes are good for use throughout Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Finland. Pass holders receive specially discounted or free fares with participating ferry and public transportation companies -- useful indeed, for example, when making a sea crossing between Sweden and Denmark.

"Youth" prices, available for those up to 25 years old, begin at $246 for a first-class, three-day rail pass. Eurail is also currently offering up a stellar deal: until April 30, when you buy a pass you get an extra day of train travel free. Passes are good up to 11 months from the issue date.

And then there's the convenience of rail travel. Unlike airports, train stations are usually located in the center of cities, so once you disembark you're right where you need to be. No long security or check-in lines, either. From first-class luxuries, like comfier seats with more legroom, to options like cozy private cabins to cuddle up in during night passages, trains make getting there half the fun.

While Eurail offers overnight travel through Sweden and Denmark, you might want to think about taking one of their scenic trains instead. When journeying through a landscape this stunning, you're going to want to keep your eyes open.


by Jill Gleeson

Jill Gleeson is a travel and adventure journalist based in the Appalachians of Central Pennsylvania. Find her on Facebook and Twitter at @gopinkboots.

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