A River Runs Through It: An LGBT Journey Through France

There's no better way to explore France than by boat.

On my recent river cruise through the Provence and Burgundy regions of France, each night I fell asleep in luxury 5-star accommodations. I woke up in the next city I always wanted to cross off the bucket list or charming town that may not have been familiar, but soon became a wonderful memory of a quieter, more authentic experience. The cruise eliminated the travel logistics and challenges that otherwise get in the way of enjoying the sights, food, wine and culture.

But it's not just the easy travel and boutique-like accommodations that made it an ideal way to see France. It was the people I met off and on the ship. Unlike massive throngs of individuals on ocean cruises (Royal Caribbean's Harmony of the Seas has a maximum capacity of 6,360 passengers and guests), riverboats typically transport several hundred passengers and visit destinations often inaccessible by larger vessels. It's a much more intimate experience, and I loved getting to know fascinating people from all around the world. I've done three all-LGBT river cruises and each time my Facebook friend list grows. When I see other guests I met on past cruises, it feels like running into old friends at summer camp.

For those who are only familiar with ocean cruising, I'll level with you: river cruising is an entirely different experience. Longer port stays, a greater emphasis on destinations, and a chance to immerse yourself in the culture of the country you're visiting set river-cruising apart. And although traditional river cruises tend to attract a more mature crowd, an all-LGBT cruise brings a much more diverse and fun group.

All Aboard!

My third trip with Brand g Vacations took me through south and central France on the Rhone and Saone Rivers. I've also had the pleasure to cruise down the legendary Danube River and Portugal's breathtaking Douro River with the same company.

Much like other gay travel companies, Brand g Vacations charters entire boats and sells the cabins to LGBT and LGBT-friendly passengers. Unlike other gay travel companies, Brand g Vacations' bread and butter are the small 100-or-so-passsenger cruises and tours.

Traveling with them is like traveling with old friends, even if it's your first trip. Co-owners Jeff Gundvaldson and Brian Van Wey know each guest's name and seem to embody the welcoming Midwest spirit of their hometown of Minneapolis. Going the extra mile in customer service seems to be the norm for them.

Aside from being surrounded by LGBT and LGBT-friendly guests, the other major benefit of an all-gay charter is added entertainment. There was nothing quite like savoring a splendid dinner and then heading upstairs to finish a glass of wine and take in a fabulous cabaret act. We were lucky enough to have singer-songwriter Anne Hampton Calloway and drag sensation Miss Conception on board our ship.

Rhone and Saone

After whetting our appetite on the offerings of southern France with an overnight in Cannes, we took a motor coach to meet our boat on the Rhone River. We boarded Avalon Waterways' gorgeous Poetry II after touring an intact Roman coliseum from the first century and seeing many of the locations for Vincent Van Gogh's paintings. Our boat was parked from the very vantage point where Van Gogh painted the infamous "Starry Night."

On the Poetry II, comfort and elegance reign supreme and the number of crew nears the number of guests. The rooms are luxurious - spacious for a riverboat but smaller than what you'd expect in a typical American hotel room. My cabin was on the second deck and had floor-to-ceiling sliding windows that stretched from wall-to-wall and offered breathtaking views of the French countryside. The air-conditioning was superb (a true commodity in Europe), the beds were plush and the modern design was elegant, while remaining understated.

One of the biggest concerns about taking a river cruise through Europe is missing out on local cuisine and dining opportunities, but let me put that concern to rest. Breakfast and lunch includes a fresh buffet with various French-inspired dishes, but dinner is truly the star of the show. Free-pouring wine was included and was the perfect touch to enhance the evening of recounting the day's adventures with new friends.

Astounding Destinations

The trip was chock-full of historical gems, such as the historical city of Avignon and the Pope's former palace. We also toured some of the most celebrated wine regions in the world.

I've always been intimated by French wine. But after several guided tastings in renowned regions such as the Beaujolais and Ch�teauneuf-du-Pape regions - I could recognize the difference between a simple and a complex wine, and how the soil - in France the all-important terroir - alters the taste and personality of a wine.

One of the most memorable excursions was a tour through the lavender fields of Provence. The flowers bloom just three weeks a year, and we were lucky enough to visit just before the fragrant buds would be harvested for food, soap and perfumes. Wandering the fields, I've never smelled air quite so aromatic, or seen colors quite so vibrant. It's no wonder impressionist painters trying to capture the essence and beauty of color made this region their home.

Perhaps even more than the other cruises I've been on, the pacing on the French cruise was superb. The mixture of various shore excursions with relaxing cruising through postcard-ready valleys was perfect. Unlike ocean cruising, we often stayed in one city either overnight, or until 5 a.m. This let guests experience the local nightlife or dining scene, if they desired.

With a mix of major metropolitan areas (Cannes, Lyon and Paris) and smaller French hamlets (Arles, Avignon, Viviers, Tournon, Chalon-Sur-Saone), the cruise brought together some of the finest aspects of France. Culinary delights, wine exploration, and fascinating history all came together beautifully in a relaxed, LGBT-friendly atmosphere.

Upcoming Brand g Vacations

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