Lovin' Las Vegas :: Life Beyond the Strip

There is no one alive who can't see this place has its many pros and cons. They don't call it "Sin City" without reason. For me, the only way to truly appreciate the breadth of what Vegas has to offer, is to get behind "The Strip" and its facade -- beyond its singular reputation as Nevada's gambling capitol.

To be certain, the bright lights and the racy tag line promising "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas," are a big part of what the draw is for many. Who doesn't want to hang in the place that promises big name DJs, even bigger star-studded parties, hot clubs filled with beautiful men and women, along with the endless supply of alcohol-fueled revelry known the world around?

That would be me. I love Vegas and have travelled there for years, both for business and for pleasure and have had my share of crazy times there. Losing myself on the dance floor of C2K to one of Susan Morabito's, shall we say, "more coherent" and magical moments? (And yes, I'm aware of dating myself.) It was a magical moment and one of the most intense experiences I've ever had... Flashback! Still available and plentiful, those moments are there up and down the strip to avail yourself of and I encourage you to explore.

I'm more of an "overall experience" kind of guy these days and prefer to spend time reveling in moments that are of, shall we say, "A more broadly fulfilling and relaxing nature." Spending the day by a fantastic pool with a smiling, swarthy waiter and a perky cocktail server, floating and sunning the day away, is much more my speed. Wandering an exhibit or checking out live music, really trips my trigger these days. Better yet, great wines and food, filled with friends, great conversations, bookended with an amazing show, now that's an evening I can get behind.

This last sojourn was all about relaxation and enjoying my environment at the SLS Las Vegas, A Tribute Portfolio resort located at what once was the Sahara Resort and Casino, a 59-year veteran and the sixth to open on the Strip's southern end. (If you listen carefully, you can just hear the jazz echoes of Louis Prima, along with his then-wife Keely Smith, in what was one of the earliest late-night acts performing there.)

The signature onion dome is gone and the SLS Las Vegas went through a remarkable and massive $415 million renovation, reopening in August of 2014. According to former CEO Sam Nazarian, the SLS moniker stands for "style, luxury and service" and as far as I'm concerned, it's right on the money.

Small in comparison to many of the other giants along the strip, the SLS provides an intimacy of experience that you don't find at its more grandiose neighbors. Don't get me wrong, I've stayed at many of them and they are beautiful in their own right. But, wandering through the 16,797,000-square-
foot CityCenter complex, though fascinating from a largess stand point, is a Herculean task. One that often leaves one to question, "Where the hell is my hotel room?"

The SLS is definitely self-contained, but there is more of a relaxing "vacation vibe," partially due to the resort's distance from the main strip. It's not like being in another city-well wait, technically it is - it's just outside the City of Las Vegas, apparently in a place called Winchester, Nevada! Who knew? The guest rooms and restaurants were designed by Philippe Starck in collaboration with the global architecture/design firm, Gensler. It's rumored that a handful of the suites were reimagined by musician and hottie, actor Lenny Kravitz. My suite was all in white, and I adored the wall covering, which at first glance I thought wallpaper, but on closer examination revealed itself to be fabric. Beautifully printed and reminiscent of 16th Century French interior panels, they don glorious arabesques of flora and fauna in black and white, with a lovely French mademoiselle peeking out from her gilded frame
just over the pillows of your bed. Note: Don't forget to look up, there's a lovely view to be seen of your "nocturnal activities," in the form of a conveniently placed mirror!

The lobby and casino interiors are what you might expect, with one notable exception, the floating, rectangular screen suspended over the central bar; a fascinating montage of constantly shifting images. The Foxtail pool complex, just off the casino floor is uber cool, offering a live DJ every Saturday and Sunday. The layout is unique with the bar seemingly floating in the center of the pool like a pontooned cabana. Get there early though, it fills up fast!

Saturday began with a walk to the Bellagio (I'll surely take a car next time), at which I thoroughly enjoyed the latest exhibit at their Gallery of Fine Art. The exhibition featured Armenian-Canadian photographer Yousuf Karsh, one of the greatest of the 20th Century. Some of the most recognizable, iconic portraits stared down at me: Martin Luther King, JFK, Salvador Dali, Ernest Hemingway, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Marian Anderson, along with myriad other iconic faces, engrossing me for the better part of three hours.

Dinner that night followed at the SLS's on site restaurant, Cleo, a Mediterranean-inspired wonder as imagined by Chef Danny Elmaleh. Old Hollywood charm is the vibe and great service is the standard at this tapas-inspired, modern eatery. A lovely Mestres, Cupatge Reserva Ros� Cava started my journey, attended by Crispy Brussel Sprouts with capers and almonds in a vingrette, began my ascension to heaven. A Wagu Kebab paired nicely with their 2011 Glen Carlou, Bordeaux Blend and the Venison that followed, well, let's just say it was "wildly-delicious." Stuffed, I finished with their Beet Salad; pickled beets, avocado, walnuts and pomegranate, and their sommelier suggested a 2013 Schloss Hallburg, Silvaner Dry Estate, I was impressed, it's not an easy pair.

I hopped an Uber to Treasure Island (three glasses of wine in, always a good choice), and caught Mystere. I'd seen it before and wasn't overly excited-silly me-I presumed it was going to be a repeat. Completely reworked and absolutely stunning, as Cirque shows always are, the magnitude of their skill and their sheer physicality is breathtaking. Never make assumptions!

Sunday was all about lounging. Both in my room and then later at the Luxor Pool for Temptation Sundays. A local favorite, the "gay" party has been a staple in Vegas for seven consecutive seasons on the strip. I so need to lose ten pounds, but the view was delightfully distracting, filled with beautiful men and women as only Vegas can offer. DJ Morningstar kept the ball rolling, both out of the pool and in it. The beachball tossed about between the occupants was a hit. Better learn to duck though, or you're destined to be hit by random flying balls. Wait, there's a visual I didn't intend!

Rest and dress. Next, came dinner at Rivea, Alain Ducasse's French and Italian Riviera-inspired wonder inside the Delano. Waiter Laurence made me feel at home and kept me entertained throughout the meal-what a wonder he was. Another sparkling ros� started the night, the Italian Franciacorta Contadi Castaldi, served with Roasted Panisse, a surprisingly delicious, delicate treat created with chickpea. Buratta Heritage Tomatoes followed, with the best mozzarella I've ever experienced.

A pair of amuse-bouche arrived next: Beautifully seasoned Seabass With Citrus Cells; grapefruit, orange, lemon and lime, followed by a personal favorite, Eggplant Tapenade; rich with Mediterranean zest. A wonderful French wine followed, Domaine Huet Clos du Bourg Vouvrey; minerally with honey notes, a perfect match to the Alaskan Wild Halibut main course, flaky and superbly seasoned with fresh herbs, along with a stuffed squash blossom, diced lemon and cucumber. Fresh Corn In Cream arrived, again from the chef, with zucchini, red pepper and Fresno chili... I can't even begin to rave.

I was completely sated at this point, but Laurence insisted that I try a dessert, offering me something "light." Anything but, their Lemon Tart, lemon curd, blueberry curd, with meringue, a Meyer Lemon Basil Sorbet, finished with a lovely Tawny Port, completely pushed my palette over the edge. What a wonderful way to fall away from such a garden of earthly delights.

There you have it ladies and gentlemen, Las Vegas without the gamble. So much there to enjoy: World class cuisine and art, entertainment offerings you can't find anywhere in such variety and concentration and clubbing at its best. Endless choices! Come for a weekend or stay for a week, you can't possibly be bored... or more entertained.