Indochino: The Perfect Fit

Matthew Wexler READ TIME: 5 MIN.

I'm standing in Indochino's swanky, yet approachable New York City showroom, waiting to meet my fit guide for my first-ever made-to-measure suit, and I'm hit with a sense memory: it doesn't smell like mothballs. There is no cigar-smoking, Old World tailor emerging from behind a stained curtain to hover at my feet. My parents aren't in the room to argue over the sleeve length or cuff. I'm a grown-up now, and buying a suit has changed dramatically in the 21st century.

I'm greeted with bottled water and piping hot coffee, and as I stroll through the sunlit studio in New York City's fashionable SoHo, I feel like the executive that I always wanted to be but never had the temperament for. Such is the vision that co-founders Kyle Vucko and Heikal Gani have realized.

While students at University of Victoria, Gani - like many millennials preparing for internships and job interviews - struggled to find a properly fitted suit at a price point he could afford. The pair recognized a platform that could target unlimited customers if their business model was efficient and offered a more personalized product at a lower cost.

According to Forbes, the U.S. apparel industry is a $12 billion business, so it's obvious that consumers are spending big. With a bit of tinkering in terms of both style and substance, Indochino was born.

How It Works

For those who want a made-to-measure suit without leaving the comfort of their own homes, Indochino will mail you a tailor's kit for $29 (redeemable toward the price of your new suit), which includes 16 fabric swatches of your choice and two tape measures. Specific instructions and videos (and the assistance of a special someone who doesn't mind reaching between your legs) make it easy to record all of the details.

Once submitted, a tailoring team in Shanghai, overseen by a master pattern maker, reviews measurements, and the suit is sent off to production. These proprietary algorithms are the brains behind the beauty, with 80 touch points throughout production that ensure the final product meets rigorous standards. Once complete, the garment heads back to Shanghai for a final check before being shipped FedEx to your doorstep.

Your Personal Style Guide

Not trusting my own fashion sense, I prefer to take advantage of one of Indochino's 10 showrooms throughout North America (fear not, their rapid expansion hopes to open 150 globally by 2020).

On trend with other online retailers such as Bonobos and Warby Parker, Indochino's brick-and-mortar presence offers customers the opportunity to get hands on, with a full display of available fabrics, limited-edition collections and samples of the various customizations, including lapels, vents, buttons, pockets, jacket lining, pleats (yes, pleats are coming back!), collar felt and buttonholes.

More than just a rundown of fabric and thread count, I feel as though my fit guide has become my new BFF, asking me how I like to spend my days, where I hope to wear my new suit and what makes me feel comfortable. She's more communicative than most of my recent dates, and I drift off into a fantasy world, where I'm fabulously dressed all the time and the most interesting person in the room, no matter where I go.

Global Trends

Tom Kearnan, director of apparel development and merchandising, is the man behind my makeover and responsible for Indochino's product line, fabric selection and design details. Not an easy job, given the broad-spectrum customer base.

"Our customer tends to read a bit younger but not in demographics," says Kearnan. "They've experienced a bit of fashion, and although we sell a ton of traditional suits, we have plenty of edgier options as well. Younger-thinking clientele also bring a new sense of masculinity. It's a fresh approach compared to 20 years ago. People aren't afraid to dress themselves."

Kearnan also demystifies the differences between made to measure and "bespoke," terms often misused to describe products and services. Made to measure uses base patterns that are then individually sewn. Working from three basic silhouettes, customization is achieved by then adjusting this pattern to a customer's specific measurements and style preferences. The result - particularly for the price - is far and above what I've bought off the rack from top retailers.

Beyond cut, fabric choice is a huge factor in representing one's individual style. I was looking for an all-purpose suit, and in lieu of a solid, my guide steered me toward a gorgeous charcoal Prince of Wales fabric with a subtle lavender check in 100 percent Merino wool. While navy, charcoal, tan and brown will always be in style, Kearnan offers options for the more fashion-forward customer, bringing in burgundy, lemon and lavender for spring 2017, nudging slightly ahead of global trends.

Looking Good

The coming year promises blue as an anchor color with a leaning toward teal in lieu of classic navy. Kearnan describes "the romance of fabric" as coming back into style, with slightly looser tailoring and a bit more movement.

As far as do's and don'ts, Kearnan says, "I'll wear anything as long as I'm comfortable with it." This is where the customer's responsibility comes into play, knowing what sort of occasions at which that suit will make an appearance and understanding one's body proportions.

Several weeks after my initial visit, I return for a fitting. A few minor alterations are made and logged into my profile, so that my next suit will (in theory) be perfect when I order it online from my couch. When I pick up the final garment the following week, I feel as though I've gifted myself a mini makeover, each detail an expression of my ever-evolving style. Without a forthcoming occasion on the calendar, I make dinner for myself that evening, set the table, light a candle and put on my new suit. Table for one. I'm the best-dressed date I've had in quite some time.

www.indochino.com


by Matthew Wexler

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