January 31, 2018
Eastside Story: Atlanta's Hip Neighborhood & Beyond
Kelsy Chauvin READ TIME: 5 MIN.
Like nothing else, travel is full of surprises. It reminds you never to think to you already have a city pegged. For example, don't stereotype a town based on its region. Don't overlook its diverse neighborhoods or rich culture. And don't ever sell it short.
That's the story of Atlanta. The Georgia capital has long been a favorite Deep-South destination thanks to its big attractions, history, civil-rights heritage, nightlife, and culinary appeal. And while all those elements make it an excellent city for travelers, there's a new wave of excitement taking A-Town to the next level.
It's happening on the ever-hip Eastside, thanks to the city's BeltLine. Once a bustling railroad that circled the city, today the perimeter route forms a "linear arboretum" that spans four miles. The first stretch opened in 2014, and if all goes as planned, in another decade or so Atlantans will be able to walk, bike, and skate a full 22 miles around their town. And if the success of this first, $450 million segment is any testament, the BeltLine promises to stoke the city's appetite and imagination in a big way.
Eastside Eats
The neighborhoods east of downtown Atlanta are pleasantly residential. Among the charming homes of the Old Fourth Ward, Inman Park, and Little Five Points are chill local spots where stopping for a bite might make a tourist feel like a resident.
Adding to the mix of funky shops and friendly watering holes are new eateries that are giving the BeltLine added flavor. On the south end of Inman Park, Ladybird Grove & Mess Hall befits the natural vibes thanks to it big, shady outdoor space perched right beside the trail. Complete with campfires and comfy outdoor furniture, Ladybird's seasonal menu is big on tasty grillables like the "backyard BBQ board" of pulled pork, ribs, and smoked wings; and Southern staples like fish and grits, and pimento-cheese fritters.
Further up the line, Victory Sandwich Bar is a tasty, affordable spot for inventive sandwiches, ramen, and snacks-or better still, a game of ping-pong with a boozy Coke slushie or one of its spiked sodas, like a root beer with absinthe or guava soda with gin. Cool off around the corner at the colorful King of Pops, a socially responsible, locally owned popsicle maker making cool flavors like pineapple habanero or banana caramel. (This fast-growing company operates carts all over town, too.)
Another tasty spot by the BeltLine is Venkman's, a restaurant and live-show venue inside a converted soda factory. All but the weekend music shows are free, and while its filling brunch and dinner menus are well worth a visit, cocktails and patio games outside make for good fun.
Urban renewal is one of the BeltLine's greatest boons, and Ponce City Market is perhaps its crowning achievement. For six decades, the massive structure served as a Sears, Roebuck & Co. distribution center parked beside the former railroad tracks. The location is now conveniently on the newfangled BeltLine, offering pedestrians access to its array of shops, eateries, and The Roof, a sprawling open-air spot with carnival games, mini golf, a beer garden and restaurant, and panoramic city views.
Culture & Community
Public art plays a significant role on the BeltLine. Local and national artists display pieces along the entire 22-mile route, many of them concentrated on the Eastside. Works rotate yearly and are noted on the BeltLine's impressive interactive map, along with commissioned murals adorning forgotten, tagged walls and bridge pillars.
Because the BeltLine winds through Atlanta's more hip/liberal neighborhoods, LGBTQ travelers will find community throughout, from the new Krog Street Market food hall, through Midtown's gayborhood hotspots. That includes Charis Books and More in Little Five Points, where you still have time to stock up on queer volumes until the shop moves three miles further east onto the Agnes Scott College campus later this year.
Drifting further north around Piedmont Park, LGBT outposts like the multi-story Blake's on the Park and The Nook draw regulars, as does the local lesbian haunt My Sister's Room, with dance nights and a big outdoor patio.
A long history of civil-rights advocacy is part of Atlanta's core. No visit would be complete without soaking up some of its uniquely American heritage at the Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Park in Sweet Auburn, where you can visit his birth home, the King Center, and Historic Ebenezer Baptist Church. From there, hop on the Atlanta Streetcar to visit the inspiring Center for Civil and Human Rights downtown.
Other Directions
Midtown and Downtown are good hubs for Atlanta's big attractions, like the famous Georgia Aquarium, Centennial Olympic Park, and nationally landmarked Margaret Mitchell House, where the author penned her epic "Gone with the Wind."
Across from Midtown's marvelous Fox Theatre are two notable hotels, both with proximity to Atlanta's central MARTA rail stations. Hotel Indigo Midtown is a gay-friendly spot with reasonable rates, modern d�cor, a comfy bar, and lovely front terrace.
Next door is the modern-classic Georgian Terrace hotel, with a rooftop pool and the enticing Edgar's Proof & Provisions craft-cocktail bar downstairs, where you can sip and ponder how rich this city, in both surprises and spirit.