Two of the Best on Orange County's Food Scene

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN

I was truly blown away by the cuisine at Selanne Steak Tavern. Each dish was, without a doubt, exquisite. This ultra-chic roadhouse was originally a historic Pacific coast cottage built in 1934. French 75, the restaurant, transformed the home for dining in 1997, and after 15 successful years decided to sell the space. Taking over are Anaheim Duck's hockey legend, Teemu Selanne and his buddy Kevin Pratt. They have elevated the space to a whole new level.

Executive Chef Joshua Severson rounded out the team with his smart and distinctive Pacific Northwest interpretation of contemporary American steak- house cuisine. His resume had him cooking at some impressive Seattle landmarks. Joshua became Chef de Cuisine at The St. Regis Dana Point and prior to that, he worked with celebrity chef Tom Colicchio at the award-winning Craft Steak in Las Vegas.

The inviting interior is accented with light walls, crisp white tablecloths, comfy high back leather chairs and well-appointed wine storage throughout. We were seated upstairs and, along with all of the other guests on the second floor, luxuriated in the service of the two very well-informed servers, Vito
and Jessie, who were themselves backed up by an incredible crew. I have come to enjoy this kind of dual service as a patron, because you get two perspectives of the dining experience from each server. The result is extra attention to detail, which made us feel like we were receiving royal treatment.

Drinks were first in line, and the Selanne Moscow Mule was the palette quencher that I was seeking. I loved the strong ginger and beer tones in each sip. My dining companion indulged in a Jordan Russian River, 2012 Chardonnay, loving the dry fruity notes. The dining portion of our experience was made extra special due to a surprise dish, "Compliments du Chef," that was sent out: A fresh catch of the day, Hamachi Crudo, garnished beautifully with seaweed, baby cilantro and delightful lemony love. Next, the super sexy Monger Oysters were sensational, served with ice wine mignonette and cocktail sauce, followed by a Prawn Cocktail, served over wakame salad drizzled with tobiko aioli - each first course was pure divinity! As a break, we were served a delightful Passion Fruit Champagne Sorbet as a palate cleanser. In anticipation of what was to come, I took the opportunity to order a lovely Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2009.

The Surf & Turf was highly recommended and is a true masterpiece. The lobster was presented bathed by a lobster beurre fondue and by far one of the best-prepared filet mignons known to man, with the chef 's truffle marrow butter and bordelaise; tender and succulent served with a gorgeous Point Reyes Blue Cheese Gratin. We shared side orders of Asparagus with lemon vincotto and Kennebec Mashed Potatos whipped with Phoenician olive oil. This was a land and sea feast I will long remember.

Pastry Chef Heather Fisher tickles dessert aficionados with lovely retro-inspired treats. I chose the Chocolate Decadence: A cavalcade of rich chocolate mousse, with a hazelnut praline dipped in even more chocolate, adorned with an artful gold design atop.

I have been writing about food for a long time, and let me just say that every course outdid the next. This culinary experience is one of my favorite dining escapades, full of savory tastes, textures and flavor combinations, thoughtfully sculpted to please on every level.

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN
1464 South Coast Highway
Laguna Beach, CA
949.715.9881
selannesteaktavern.com

LITTLE SPARROW:

Another charming discovery is Little Sparrow in Santa Ana, and its backstory, much like the restaurant, is quite captivating. Bruce Marsh and Naseem Aflakian met in New York City just over five years ago; Aflakian was studying to get her degree at NYU in the culinary field, and Marsh was an entrepreneur in the city. The two married a year and a half later, moving to California three years ago and currently have a 1-year-old baby girl.

When a financial opportunity came along at the right time, they took the leap and opened their first restaurant together. A smart move, because in just one year it has become a great success. They have been voted "Best New Restaurant" by Orange Coast Magazine and The Register O.C. and are nominated for a 2014 Golden Foodie Award.

I thoroughly appreciated the respect paid to the original bones of the 1920s building the restaurant occupies at 3rd and Main in Santa Ana. Over the past few years, this historic downtown neighborhood has had an influx of new eateries in the area, and this gem is another jewel in its crown. We reveled in the retro- inspired d�cor with its clean architectural lines and warm window treatments, as well as the fascinating driftwood installation on the interior wall, providing a unique focal point and giving the dining room an intimate feel. It felt almost as if we were in someone's home, comfortably seated in their intimate dining room waiting for dinner.

Kim, an IT Project Manager by day and server by night, greeted us enthusiastically and was attentive throughout our entire meal. Little Sparrow has an attention-grabbing cocktail menu created by the restaurant's craft cocktail specialist, Casey Dion. I was enticed into ordering the Old Cuban: Rum, lime juice, bitters and Champagne. It was an excellent call, as was my first appetizer, the Grilled Octopus, masterfully combined with hon shimeji mushrooms, carrot and radish.

The Sugar Cane Pork Skewers had a unique presentation with tasty tender pork, presented on a crisp lettuce leaf. I also got a kick out of the drink called Queen's Holiday: Rum, lime, pineapple shrub, mint, bitters and demerara. Executive Chef Eric Samaniego, a California native, was at Charlie Trotters in Chicago for two years, Sona for two, then moving on to Comme �a under the tutelage of David Meyers for five years -- a body of experience that translates well to the plate.
Case in point: The Roasted Diver Scallops. Long green beans, oyster sauce, Chinese sausage and crispy pig feet, were absolutely to die for. My guest relished in the tenderness of the Shuna Bay Salmon, paired wisely with summer squash, arugula pistou and preserved lemon.

Pastry Chef Nasera Munshi knows how to appease a sweet tooth. Her Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler, served with vanilla bean ice cream was brilliant, as was the forward-thinking Chocolate Tart strewn with chocolate drops, cherries, cherry sorbet and a mint cr�me.

We were there on Dive Bar Tuesday and I found the boast on the night's menu hilarious: "Crappy food done well." Nostalgic '80s and '90s music, with
25 percent off cocktails, beer and wine, also no corkage fee for your crappy grocery store wine... I mean, seriously, who does that? Also, in the bar, you can get a shot of whiskey and can of beer for just $6 (only in their bar), and their Wine Wednesdays offer a three-course tasting menu and half-off all bottles of wine. Fun food, great atmosphere and an occasional guest speaker with something interesting to say.

Little Sparrow is the perfect spot for those in town for O.C. Pride on Saturday, August 9 - come check this little gem out!

LITTLE SPARROW
300 North Main Street
Santa Ana, CA
714.265.7640
littlesparrowcafe.com