Scuderia

Dinner at Scuderia was a shameful, indulgent affair-we wanted practically everything on the menu, ordered much of it and couldn't help but eat all of our selections over several grazing hours. Perhaps I was slightly peckish at the start, but it's difficult not to relent to the effusive staff, which encourages eating and drinking as much as possible. It's hardly surprising that Silvano Marchetto, the gentleman behind the iconic and celebrified Da Silvano across the street, is also co-owner here.

So, if wantonness be my crime, then I'm guilty as charged: first up were a few Negron ($9) cocktails with gin, Compare and sweet vermouth-the bartender sure knows his stuff! Very sporting glasses of white Gradis'cutta Tocai Friulano ($11), rife with a fine mineral quality, greatly complemented our food. The Scuderia Pizza ($17.50) with fig jam, blue cheese and speck was keenly composed; the arrangement of Burrata ($22.50) cheese (hefty in portion and price) with prosciutto, slivers of black truffle and a drizzle of house-made Da Silvano Tuscan olive oil was very good. But as the incredible, delectable burrata has already been sent down from heaven quite perfect on its own, why futz?

Our Polpette ($10.50) meatballs were soaked in a tangy tomato sauce with a slight heat and served on top of polenta. Fegatini Alla Salvia ($11.50) with string beans, chicken livers and sage was actually French in style and completely unexpected; the dressing of olive oil on the crunchy beans nicely offset the slight salt of the wonderful, firm livers.

We were further moved to try pastas: Raffetto's Peppered Pappardelle al Cinghiale ($16.50) with wild boar and rosemary was excellent; rugged, al dente Bucatini all'Amatriciana ($15.50) with guanciale (pork jowl), tomato and grilled onions came together in perfect harmony.

Secondi mains never happened. We ordered a few scoops of Sorbetto ($3/scoop) for dessert, namely Green Apple, which was gentle like apple sauce and Blood Orange, which was sweet and tart served with a touch of Solerno (blood orange liqueur), and then got the hell out of Scuderia before we exploded.

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257 Sixth Ave btwn Houston/Bleecker Sts
New York, NY
United States