BondSt

BONDST has retained the sleek style of an intimate supper club lo these many years, and I'm pleased to report that the wait staff is entirely sans attitude. We lingered at the bar first over a few cocktails: while the Kaffir Collins ($13) with Calvados and kaffir lime was overwhelmed by fresh blueberries, the Dry Saketini ($12) crafted from vodka and Kira sake benefited from a mellowing slice of cucumber.

Our luxurious dinner began with a tray of special Shibumi Oysters ($14) from the West Coast. We delighted in the half-dozen sample, two of each topped with either perky cucumber wasabi gelee, sweet yuzu granita, or pickled ginger mignonette. Lobster & Uni Chawan Mushi ($11) was one of the more unusual things I've ever tasted, a wondrous composition of tofu custard with wasabi soy, and little pieces of lobster claw welcoming a gorgeous sunset of uni (sea urchin) and American sturgeon caviar. Seared Tuna & Foie Gras ($24) were amiable companions dressed with spicy Asian pear chutney, a plum wine glaze and holy basil. We also found 24-Hour Braised Kuro Buta Pork Belly ($16) to be an extraordinary combination with baby artichokes, slivers of grape tomato, a miso glaze and, by virtue of molecular gastronomy, an exciting olive oil powder.

Lobster Tempura ($16) featured solid lobster chunks with a Japanese mustard dressing that reminded us of the hot mustard packets from take-out Chinese restaurants, but a little sweeter. The Spicy Tuna Roll ($12) was tasty dolled up with chili mayo. And from the list of Nigiri & Sashimi, we enjoyed the surprisingly fruity Salmon Egg Caviar ($11).

Specials found us dabbling with pieces of Barracuda ($10/2 per order), similar to eel but musky and smokier; Monkfish Liver ($8/2 per order) is properly dubbed the "foie gras of the sea" with its inviting, luscious creaminess.

Had we ordered nothing else, the Ricotta Cup alone ($9), layered with a macadamia cookie brittle, peach pur�e and an almond-infused ricotta mousse graced by yamamomo granita would have sent us screaming into the night all along Bond Street and beyond.